The Himalayan state of Uttarakhand has no dearth of temples. So much so that it is commonly referred to as the Devbhoomi (the land of Gods). Of course, with temples come legends, folklore and stories, making it a great lure for storytellers, writers, poets and other artists. One of these many legends that I grew up with is the legend of Panch Kedar. These temples, other than Kedarnath, are hidden high up in the Garhwal Himalayas, away from the rather intrusive glare of social media influencers and weekend drives.
What are the Panch Kedars?
Panch Kedar are the five shrines dedicated to Hindu deity, Shiva, Kedarath being the most famous of the five. All the five temples are set in the Garhwal Himalayas of Uttarakhand and are a treat to visit; equally so if you are an atheist and a storyteller, curious about Hindu mythology’s most famous legends. Of course, visiting any of these temples is a treat by itself, owing to the landscape and terrain that these temples are set in. The Panch Kedar temples comprise of:
Kedarnath
Tungnath
Rudranath
Kalpeshwar
Madhyamaheshmar, also referred to as Madmaheshwar
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Legend of Panch Kedar
The legend of Panch Kedar goes back to the Mahabharata, one of the two major Sanskrit epics of ancient India (other being the Ramayana). As per the legend, the Pandava brothers seeked atonement from Shiva for killing their brothers, the Kauravas, in the epic battle of Mahabharata. It is believed that Shiva was angry at the five brothers for killing their own kin in the fierce battle that lasted 18 days.
Pandavas, in their quest for forgiveness from Shiva, reached Kashi (now Varanasi). The city is believed to be the home of Shiva and Parvati in the Hindi mythology. As per the legend, Shiva disappeared from Kashi as Pandava brothers reached and came to Gupt Kashi, another popular pilgrimage spot in Uttarakhand. He took the form of Nandi bull to avoid being recognised by the Pandavas, who came to Gupt Kashi, looking for him. Pandava brothers recognised Shiva in his bull form as well, making him vanish into the ground.
Shiva later appeared in five different forms at the Panch Kedar temples. Legend says that his hump appeared at Kedarnath. Tungnath temple is where his arms appeared, belly at Madhyamaheshwar, hair at Kalpeshwar and face at Rudranath. He is worshipped in these specific forms at the five temples, collectively known as the Panch Kedars.
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Imagination or reality – the Panch Kedar
If you go by the legends, the five temples of Panch Kedar were built by the Pandavas to atone for their sins. Other than Kalpeshwar, which needs a short trek, the other four temples are difficult to access. Each of these temples is very finely crafted and has stood the test of time as well as the rugged landscape that they are set in.
As documented, the Kedarnath temple was restored in the 8th century. A study by the Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology, the temple walls have signs of glacial activity, adding to the claims that the temple was buried under snow for around 400 years! Some experts also opine that the temple is more than a thousand years old. Kalpeshwar is estimated to have been built in the7th century. Meanwhile, some experts claim that the Madhyamaheshwar temple might be as old as 5000 years!
Now, the most popularly accepted date for Mahabharata is around 3000 years old. So yes, the timelines of Mahabharata and the Panch Kedar overlap and it would be hard to prove if it was indeed the Pandavas that built the temples. If you believe in the epic, it would be fair to say that the temple structure in some form might have been existing when the Pandavas roamed in the Garhwal Himalayas, further developing the temples.
What I think about the Panch Kedar temples
Well, you can or cannot choose to believe in the saga, the temple structures here are no mean feat. Even in today’s time, all the five temples sit in very tough terrains, so one can very well forget building a structure of this scale or majesty.
While the landscape for all the five temples is breathtaking, with splendid views of the Chaukhamba and other Himalayan mastiffs, the legend simply adds to the intrigue of the Panch Kedar.
I highly recommend that you visit these temples, for spirituality or otherwise or for the sheer joy that trekking is. These journeys are life changing; more so, if you explore temples other than the Kedarnath that already sees overly eager tourists and reels under over tourism and related disturbances.
The sheer views in the Panch Kedar journeys will make you bow in delight and awe, if not spirituality.
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